Cliffs, Clouds, and Levadas from São Vicente. Madeira is a photographer’s dream — dramatic cliffs, moody forests, jagged peaks, and ever-changing skies. I recently spent a week based near São Vicente, on the rugged north-west coast, using it as a launchpad to explore the island’s most photogenic spots. Staying in this quieter part of the island gave me great access to the central mountains, the north coast, and some of the best levada walks — all without the crowds of Funchal or the south.

While Madeira is full of hidden gems, these locations stood out as absolute photography highlights:

Miradouro do Véu da Noiva - Located along the dramatic north coast, this viewpoint offers a sweeping vista of cliffs and the "Bridal Veil" waterfall plunging into the Atlantic. Best captured in the early morning when the light hits the waterfall and cliff face just right.

Fanal Forest - This ancient laurel forest comes alive in the fog. Twisted trees and shifting mist create otherworldly scenes — ideal for moody, atmospheric shots. I returned three times before getting the right conditions. It’s a tough place to shoot as your lense is constantly wet and the clouds come and go with incredible regularity.

Seixal Sea Stacks & Black Sand Beach - Just down the road from where I was staying, this location became a favourite. Towering basalt sea stacks rise from the Atlantic, framed by black sand and lush cliffs. Stunning during blue hour and stormy light. This is a dangerous location so I would probably bring a friend next time.

Miradouro do Guindaste (Faial Viewpoint) - A rewarding sunrise location. On clear mornings, the cliffs glow with soft light while waves crash below. Surprisingly quiet and simple to reach. I wasn’t alone here but people didn’t complain. A drone is beneficial. There is a nice sea water pool down below.

Ponta de São Lourenço - The easternmost point of Madeira. This arid, wind-swept peninsula contrasts beautifully with the island’s greener regions. Great textures, strong leading lines, and perfect light at sunrise. I was rushed here and didn’t get what I wanted. depending on wjhere you are staying this is quite a long drive, you may need to choose the locations carefully.

Inland Villages & Viewpoints - Madeira rewards spontaneity. Quiet roadside miradouros, terraced hillsides, and cloud-covered ridges appear when you least expect them. Some of my favourite shots were unplanned.

One of the standout experiences of the trip was hiking above the clouds. Madeira’s high peaks often rise above a thick inversion layer, letting you walk in sunshine while valleys below are shrouded in fog. Pico do Areeiro and Pico Ruivo are the best places to witness this. Watching clouds spill over the cliffs as sunrise lights the peaks is pure magic.

Driving in Madeira is... intense. I rented a manual Ford Focus, the small engine added a challenge to already tricky roads. Tight hairpins, blind corners, steep gradients, and sudden drop-offs are standard. Add the occasional bus or local speeding past, and it becomes a mini adrenaline rush. Automatic cars are rare and expensive, but well worth considering if you’re not confident driving manual in mountainous terrain.

Madeira’s levada and vereda trails are iconic — and for good reason. They wind through waterfalls, forests, and cliffside paths. Over the week, I tackled six top trails:

PR13 – Vereda do Fanal to Assobiadores - A moody forest walk through the Fanal highlands. Magical in misty conditions, but hot and busy by midday. Go early for the best light and fewer people.
PR12 – Levada do Caldeirão Verde - A lush, tunnel-filled ledge walk ending at a waterfall. Stunning — but crowded. Single-file walking is common. Bring a torch and start early.
PR19 – Caminho Real do Paul do Mar - A steep, cobbled descent to the coast. Exposed and hot, but the clifftop views are unreal. Hard on the knees — wear good shoes.
PR18 – Levada do Rei - Green, peaceful, and less crowded. A gentle forest trail that ends at a waterfall. Shady and satisfying — one of the more relaxing hikes.
PR16 – Levada Fajã do Rodrigues - Close to São Vicente. Tunnels, aqueducts, and dense vegetation make this short trail incredibly varied. Bring a torch. Not too busy and easy to access from the north.
PR6 – Levada das 25 Fontes - Beautiful, yes — but also the most crowded trail I did. Feels more like a queue at times. Try PR6.2 or PR6.3 instead for similar landscapes with more space to breathe.

Madeira’s best trails are also the busiest. My advice? Start early just after sunrise, or go late in the day to catch golden light and thinner crowds. Be ready for weather shifts, slippery sections, and a lot of stairs.

Just along the north coast from São Vicente, the villages of Seixal and Porto Moniz offer some of Madeira’s most striking coastal scenery. Seixal is home to a rare black sand beach backed by lush cliffs and dramatic sea stacks — perfect for moody, reflective shots during blue hour or stormy light. Just a few minutes away are Seixal’s natural lava pools, calmer and less crowded than others on the island, making them ideal for swimming or minimalist long exposure photography. Further west, Porto Moniz features a larger and more developed network of natural pools carved into the volcanic rock, offering a mix of rugged Atlantic energy and safe, swimmable inlets. Both locations are easily accessible and showcase Madeira’s unique volcanic shoreline — raw, textured, and constantly changing with the light.

I found running in Madeira surprisingly challenging — the terrain is relentless. I ran most days along stretches of the old Route 101, now bypassed by tunnels, which hug the cliffs above the sea. The views were absolutely stunning, but the constant ups and downs, sharp turns, and steep gradients made every run a real effort. That said, there’s something special about running above the Atlantic, with waves crashing below and jungle-like cliffs towering overhead — a tough but unforgettable experience. If I had been staying in funchal it may have been easier but hey!

Madeira rewards patience and persistence. Weather changes in minutes. Trails can close unexpectedly. The roads are small and it takes a long time to travel short distances. The perfect light might last just seconds. But when it all comes together — fog in Fanal, cloud inversions at Areeiro, or waves pounding the sea stacks at Seixal — it’s unforgettable. One week wasn’t enough. And I already can’t wait to go back.

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